On The Road Again.

Woke to torrential rain yet again this morning.The RAC had arranged a car for us and we organised the taxi for 9.00.  We were driven north out of Lugarno and at one time thought we were headed back through the Gotthard tunnel, but eventually arrived at a small village with the most basic Europcar depot ever.  We were shown a Skoda Fabia, far too small to accommodate all of our camping gear.  After a stressful three way telephone conversation including the car hire man who spoke no English and, us shamefully very little Italian, suddenly a Touran appeared.  Familiar, the same make as our previous car, but automatic.  My first problem was to make it go!! Once moving though Sally Satnav led us unerringly to the landrover dealer where a very friendly and helpful workshop manager explained poor old Landy's problems to us; not the propshaft as we suspected but (and I only mention this for all you mechanically minded types out there) the constant velocity joint on the offside front axle.  Once that had been clearly explained we transferred all of the camping gear into the Touran and launched off to Italy.  We soon left the mountains, and rain, behind us and travelled miles along the Po valley, flat as a pancake and reminiscent of the Lincolnshire Fens.  The journey went quickly, however, and we sped past Parma of the ham fame and Modena, home of basamic vinegar.  Bologna came and went and we began to climb into hills again.  As we approached Florence it was time to leave the motorway and wind through beautiful north Tuscan hills with increasing temperatures and clearing skies.  Approaching our selected campsite the verges, banks and fields were covered in mouthwatering orchids.  I can't wait to get out to them tomorrow.  Once found the campsite was a small, friendly, family site and at 16 Euros a night , much cheaper that our £100/night hotel.  Once the tent was up the first priority was a beer sitting in the sun outside the campsite bar followed by a simple pasta meal at the tent.  Now I write this blog sitting outside the tent on a pleasant balmy evening; so much different to wet Switzerland.  The bank outside the tent is thick with violets, bugle and primroses and blackbirds sing from the trees.  Now an early night and a chilled out day tomorrow.

The campsite reception with the wooded Tuscan Hills behind.

Still Stranded in a Wet Lugano.

Well it's been a thoroughly wet day today.  It began raining last night about midnight and we woke this morning to stair rods!!  It has continued in the same vein all day so we have remained close to the hotel apart from a potter round the local village for coffee and cake.  We have bad news but the good news is that the temperature in Umbria where we are headed is 26 degrees and sunny!!!  Can't wait.  There is, however bad news on the car front.  It is going to take up to 10 days to get the spare parts from the UK and then another couple of days to repair it.  All is not lost, however, as the RAC, bless them, are paying for a hire car for us for up to 14 days (as well as helping with the hotel bill we have accrued so far).  So tomorrow we shall be on the road again.  We may yet decide to camp near Florence depending on the weather or we may carry straight on to the villa.  I may even be tempted to play On The Road Again by Canned Heat on the Ipod.  Now that's showing my age!!  In the meantime we are planning on eating in our hotel tonight and it may soon have to time for the first beer of the evening.  Think I've earned it!!  We cannot praise our hotel highly enough.  They have been amazingly sympathetic and friendly. Their help on the car front has been invaluable.  If you are ever in Lugano and need a friendly family hotel close to the motorway head for Hotel Vezia, San Gottardo 32, 6943, Vezia, Lugano.  www.hotelvezia.ch

Poor weather and negotiations on the car front have kept the camera in the bag today so I include some images from yesterday.

Azalia, Hotel Vezia.

The wonderful hotel itself.

Gandria.

Gandria

Wisteria and steps, Gandria.

Roof Gandria.

Gandria and Lake Lugano.

Looking towards Monte San Salvatore.

A Cruise on Lake Lugano.

Another wet day so didn't rush to do anything.  It would appear the weather all over Europe (well Italy anyway) is rubbish for the next several days!! ).  When we eventually did get going  we caught the ferry to nearby Gandria; a lakeside village only accessible by boat or on foot.  Thinking the ferry would just be a quick trip to Gandria, it was a delight to be treated to a mini tour of the lake.  Despite, or maybe because of, the weather the views up to the Porlezza end of the lake were dramatic with huge mountains and layers of cloud at different levels.  Gandria was charming, reminiscent of a Lake Lugano version of Robin Hoods Bay in miniature with its winding lanes and steps climbing up the mountainside.  The path, the Sentiero d' Olivio, took us back to Lugano with hidden views around every corner.
Wildlife highlights of the day have been the red kite seen over Lugano and again the hooded crows.  Flowers were again of interest, certainly more numerous than at home when we left.  Of note were common centaury, bugle, poppies (both red and yellow), ivy leaved toad flax, mullein and euphorbias.  There was also one very attractive blue flower that was widespread that needs either my flower guide, which is in the car, or my brother to identify.  Of a less wild nature the azaleas, rhododendrons, acers and tulips are stunning.  Wisteria is everywhere and fills the air with wonderful scent.
Once back at the hotel it was that time of day that only a beer will satisfy and so it was necessary to retire to the bar before adjourning to a small local restaurant, the Osteria Riva, that specialses in home cooked local delicacies.  The tagliatelle with truffles and Ossobuco were excellent, as was the local  Ticino merlot.  The complimentary Grappa di Casa in the unlabelled bottle was also gratefully received.

Azalia in the hotel garden.

View down Lake Lugano from the ferry.

Gandria.

Gandria

Gandria.

The ferry steams away from the pier.

Wisteria.

Blue flower that awaits either the flower guide or my brother.

Mullein.

View over the lake to Monte San Salvatore.

Tulip.

A Day in Lugano

Not having (or being able) to drive anywhere today we had a lazy start to a grey and wet day.  We enjoyed a typical buffet continental breakfast and then the owner of the hotel contacted the Landrover dealer for us.  Unfortunately they are closed all weekend but will either be able to repair the car or order parts on Monday.  We then contacted the RAC who arranged to have it taken to the garage.  Apart from having to wait until Monday all seems to have gone smoothly and both the hotel and RAC couldn't have been more helpful.  Once all of that was out of the way we caught the bus into Lugano centre and the lake.  It is a lovely, classically Italian old town and the lake is in a spectacular location surrounded by amazing mountains.  After a visit to the tourist information centre we decided to walk around the promenade to the funicular railway up Monte San Salvatore.  This is a towering peak overlooking the lake and Lugano itself.  The ride up was impressive and steep and the views from the summit spectacular.  Huge steep sided mountains all around with the lake and town far below.  The flora was interesting with vetches, violets, hellebores,  primroses and several others whose identification eluded me from the funicular.  The most interesting species in my eyes was a Common Amelanchier or corvine Eidelweiss shrub.  It is also known as Juneberry.  Another notable wildlife observation was the hooded crow I discovered by the lake side.
Once back down in the town we visited an exhibition of the work of Paul Klee and Fausto Melotti.  Next it was time for a pizza and then back to the hotel for a beer.

One poorly Freelander on the way to the garage.

Lake Lugano.

Lake Lugano from Monte San Salvatore.

Juneberry.

Cloud drifts up from the lake.

It's good to see the fresh green of the new beech leaves.

Monte San Salvatore reflected in windows.

Poorly Car but Hotel Owner May Save the Day.

An interesting day today to say the least.  We were up and away early from the hotel in Nancy at 8.30 but soon our suspicions of a poorly car yesterday were confirmed: increasingly worrying vibrations, gradual loss of power and, eventually definite noises from underneath.  My initial thoughts eventually proved correct and we have an ailing prop shaft.  Despite these problems the day has not been without its high points.  After leaving Nancy and heading south we soon began to make out the outline of the Vosges Mountains on the horizon.  Motorway was left behind and we began to climb up into the hills heading towards the Ballon d'Alsace.  Gradually main roads were behind us and we headed into the heart of the mountains at St Marie aux Mines having already surmounted one col.  At St Marie we reached familiar territory here as I had cycled these roads several years ago.  From St Marie we climbed over another spectacular col (the car managing to behave at this point!) and descended into Ribeauville where we had camped for a week in 2005.  We decided to stop for a coffee break here and revisit this beautiful Alsace town with it's quaint Germanic architecture. Problems with the car began to exacerbate from this point and the second half of the journey proved increasingly interesting!!!  We headed from the Vosges Mountains and the vineyards of Alsace towards Basel and Switzerland.  As we passed through the border control we were 'invited' to pay the Swiss road tax.  This was not unexpected but 40 euros to drive through the country in half a day seems a tad over the top!!!!  The next hurdle was Basel, a city we had negotiated twice before but not without incident.  Today was to be no exception.  No problem this time we thought!!!  We had a brand new SATNAV but unbeknown   to me it was set to avoid toll roads and however hard we tried to get on the motorway to Lucerne, Sally Satnav insisted we leave it.  Interesting!!!!  The problem was eventually resolved and Sally corrected and we sped (?) towards Lucerne and the Alps which were dramatically covered in snow.  From Lucerne we headed (with increasing vibrations) up the Gotthard Pass and the 11 mile long tunnel.  Had we broken down here we would have caused a drastic traffic jam!!  Pass and tunnel behind us we limped into Lugano where lady luck was on our side as the hotel we picked out of the ether proved to be a godsend.  The owner not only spoke good English but had a friend who owned a car workshop.  Not only that but there is a Landrover dealer in the town.  Always wanted to explore the Italian Lakes by public transport and on foot!!!!  Hopefully tomorrow will see some news on the repair front.
Wildlife highlights were buzzards and red kites hunting near the motorways with jays and greenwoodpeckers in the woods.  At one point a nuthatch flew across the road in front of us.  The area  in and arouind Ribeauville is well known for its storks which nest in and around the town.  Nest platforms have been erected for these magnificent birds on all of the taller buildings.
Sadly the weather has been a disappointment: rain and fog in the Italian Lakes!!!!

Ribeauvielle Chanteclaire.

Alsace Wines.

Our chosen cafe for coffee and apfelsturdel,

Dandelions in the vines.

Chateau above Ribeauville.

Stork with chick.

Nightingales singing, not in Berkely Square but a Belgian motorway services.

Sitting writing this in a very pleasant hotel room on the outskirts of Nancy in northern France looking out at pine trees and waiting for the first pint and then an evening meal.  Covered 275 miles today of largely good going from the ferry in Zeebrugge.  The ship berthed at 8.45 and we were off and away by 9.15.  Our route took us through Belgium passing Bugges and Brussels before heading over the hills of the Ardennes and into Luxembourg.  Luxembourg was soon behind us taking only a brief 30 minutes to cross the corner and then we weren't long bypassing Metz, which looked very attractive with river, lake and huge Gothic cathedral towering over the town. Soon after this we reached Nancy and began looking for a hotel for the night.  The new Sat Nav was invaluable for this job.  The first 100 miles was very busy especially round Brussels but after this the traffic thinned out and the driving was much more pleasant.  Very much enjoyed the drive through the Ardennes, an area of high rolling wooded hills up to 800m high.  This area would well repay an longer visit.

On the drive it soon became clear that spring was far more advanced here, especially as we travelled further south.  The most noticeable thing was how brightly green the grass was; it had actually begun to grow here.  Trees were also much further in leaf. Cowslips and ladies smock grew thickly on motorway verges and everywhere were huge bunches of mistletoe.  Buzzards as usual were common hunting alongside the motorway but the wildlife highlight of the day was the nightingale singing from the blossom covered blackthorn bushes.

For those with a cycling interest we passed close to both Liege and Bastogne scene of the famous Belgian one day classic cycle race Liege-Bastogne-Liege.  Tomorrow we go off piste and leave the motorway hoping to drive over the Ballon d'Alsace, another cycling favourite that has featured in the Tour de France.

It has been a very warm day today with temperatures in the mid 20s but it is forecast to be cool tomorrow;-(

A good first day.

Norway Maple in flower at the motorway services.

Time for a welcome picnic. (note the bins for nightingale watching!)

Early Beginnings.

Well Scartho Ladies had the quickest trip round Scotland imaginable but the talk went well and the photos were very well received. After a quick turnaround we were off to Hull and the ferry. Now on Blue Deck in the piano lounge enjoying the first pint of the trip. I am hoping to get some sunset images as we pass Spurn later this evening. If so I will add one to this post.

Grimsby Dock Tower from the ferry.

Sailing past Spurn Point.

Sunset over the Humber.

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Ready For The Off.

After a day ticking things off the list and packing, the car is all loaded and ready to go. Just got to give a talk on Wild Scotland tomorrow lunchtime then it's off to Hull to catch the ferry. What made me agree to give a talk on the day I leave to go on holiday heaven only knows.


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Location:Scartho Park,Grimsby,United Kingdom

Preparations

Having already made two short visits to Italy in recent years we couldn't resist the temptation of a week in cousin Rob's villa in Umbria in order to take photographs for his website.  Having freed ourselves up for 5 weeks in order to do a trip up the west coast of Scotland we decided to put this on hold and spend five weeks driving down to Umbria and back.  (Scotland next year).  We opted not to take the caravan but update our camping equipment and stop wherever we find ourselves.  We catch the Hull to Zeebrugge ferry next Wednesday 24th April and plan to drive down through Belgium, France and Switzerland crossing into Italy via the Gotthard pass/tunnel.  From here we shall head down to northern Tuscany and take in both some of the famous Tuscan countryside and also Florence.  Then it will be down to the villa on the edge of the Sibillini National Park for a week.  On our way back we plan on exploring southern Tuscany, particularly the Orcia Valley before moving on to the Cinque Terre.  From here we shall return to France and spend a short time in the Vercours before heading back through France and Belgium to the Ferry.

Over the last few weeks we have been gathering maps and guides and enjoying modernising some our our camping equipment.

Trying out the new tent in friends Stephen and Dianne's garden

Yep we did it.

 To complete this first blog I thought it appropriate to include a few images from our last visit to Umbria and Tuscany to whet our appetite.

The Church of St Francis, Assisi.

Wonderful Italian tiled roofs.

The Duomo, Sienna

The Umbrian countryside near, Spoleto.

Aqueduct, Spoleto.

Roof tops, Perugia.

Can't wait to get back to these old weathered pastel buildings with their shutters.

The view from my daughter's flat when she was a student in Perugia.

Stromy skies over Perugia.

Perugia at night.

Perugia.